Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Cape Town to Swakopmund, Namibia
















It's been a week since we left Cape Town and we have now arrived in Swakomund, Namibia which is located on the coast. We are on an overland trip with 14 other people and our 2 guides. I am very happy with the trip so far - everyone in our group is wonderful - ranging from early twenties to upper 40's - it's a nice mix. More than half of the group is German, a few Australians, one other American, Brazil, Portugal and Austria. Our guides are both from Zimbabwe and they are extremely knowledgeable about the region and cook us wonderful meals. We are staying in army tents at camps most nights with a few nights in lodges. All of the campsites have been very nice - most with pools which are well needed after 6-8 hours in the truck in the sweltering heat. We stop wherever we are to eat lunch - the truck is fully equipped with little chairs, a table, a water tank, and all of our food. We are a tight little community as we set up the lunch area, work together to prep the food and then do our dishes and re-pack the truck. We have made some amazing stops along the way - being sure to see the highlights. The days begin very early and we are really covering some ground. We had a minor break down a few days into the trip - the radiator was overheating and spewing antifreeze due to the extreme heat. Luckily, it was nothing more than the heat and they just needed to add water to the radiator. Lucky for us, because standing outside of the truck in the heat was a bit much and there are very few cars that drive down the roads in Namibia - and even if they do, there isn't much they can do for you. If it had been a real break-down, we would have had to waited there until someone came for us which would have taken several hours, at minimum.

The first two days were spent in South Africa, - first stop at Lamberts Bay, which was nothing much of a town. We took a walk out to an island where lots of different species of birds live and breed. We saw thousands of gannets up close. It was quite chilly there that night and I froze all night, as I only brought a very thin silk travel sheet - so I layered items of clothing over myself all night trying to stay warm. The second night, we stayed at a camp site on the Gariep River, which creates the border between South Africa and Namibia. It was a beautiful campsite right on the river and our first chance to swim in African waters. The guides made a spectacular dinner of chicken curry which gave me the worst stomach ache and we had a nice campfire and a few drinks at the bar - a little time to bond with our fellow travelsers. Then, on the third day, we entered Namibia. Our first stop was the Fish River Canyon, where we also camped for the night and caught a sunset over the canyon. The canyon was beautiful - like a much smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Namibia is a stark, vast landscape of sand and dry brush. I've never seen such a spectacular landscape. It's as if I've landed on Mars. Never thought that a place so bleak could be so beautiful. The highlight of the trip for me so far has been our visit to the sand dunes in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. It is here that you can find some of the highest sand dunes in the world. We awoke at 4:30 a.m. and made our way into the park and climbed Dune 45, known as one of the highest accessible dunes in the park. From here, we watched the sunrise. It was quite a journey up the dune - hiking in sand is no easy task. But once we were there, it was well worth the pounding heart, sweat and calf pains - to sit atop the dune and admire the landscape was absolutely spectacular. And then running down the dunes at full speed was fun. Went to a place called Deadvlei, which you can see in the pictures, which is a place where a river used to run through and 600-800 years ago, the sand blocked the river and what is left is a dried up river bed with dead trees that are quite dated and still standing. As you can see from the pictures, it doesn't even look real. Namibia is an exquisite place and there are still bushmen who live a nomadic lifestyle in this desert. With most days topping at 100 degrees or more, you can't help but feel a deep respect for these people and an astonishment that people can survive in such a harsh environment. Their story does not come without sorrow however because their numbers are dwindling due to pressure from development. They are also caught between two worlds as many of them are pressured to send their children to school and they usually only make it to 6th grade - so they are not educated enough to make it in the progressive world and are struggling to go back to their tribes and live their traditional lifestyle. Yesterday, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and entered the city of Swakopmund, where we are right now. We are staying in a lodge for 2 nights which is a nice break from the tents and a good chance to catch up on things before heading back out into the bush. Swakopmuns is on the coast and offers a variety of activities - from sandboarding, to quad biking to sky diving. I entertained the thought of sky diving and decided that I wasn't ready to put myself through that fear again - even though everyone says that it's much easier and less scary than bungee jumping - I just don't feel like I have it in me right now. Instead, Amanda and I are going for an hour four-wheeling journey and then a few hours of sand boarding. It's a lie-down sand boarding so it will be more like sledding on the sand dunes. Should be a lot of fun and looking forward to it. Tommorrow, we will leave and head off to Etosha National Park where we have 3 game drives and good chances of seeing lions along with other wildlife. We will spend 2 days there and then make our way to Botswana to visit the Okavanga Delta. Okay, I'm off to go driving and flying through the sand dunes. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Cape Town, South Africa




Well, back here in Cape Town, South Africa. Arriving here felt so good - like visiting an old friend again after many years - though it's only been less than a year since I was here last. The first several days were a bit rough however because during my trip here, my bags had to get re-routed and were not here when I arrived. I was expecting this since when I arrived in Los Angeles, my bags were not there and I was told that they would be put on a different airline and literally shipped the opposite way around the globe. So, as I flew through Hong Kong - my bags when the other direction through London. They were due to arrive on the same day as me but they did not get here until 4 days later. Needless to say, it was a bit unnerving and frustrating for those first four days as I spent most days calling the airport and not getting much help or relief - not to mention wearing the same clothes for close to 6 days. I was never so happy to see my backpack as when it arrived at my hostel. We spent the first 3 nights in Green Point at a very clean and quiet backpackers and then moved to Long Street which is the complete opposite. It's the place where everything is going on and it was very entertaining. We took advantage of our location and went out to see live music over the weekend. It's hard to beat live African music. Besides taking care of business - spent a lot of time shopping and eating - which isn't hard to do in Cape Town. The diversity and variety of food here is mind-blowing. After about a week of eating and shopping, we decided to get out of here for a bit and we rented a car for a few days. Amanda has friends of her family who live in a beach town just 20 minutes from here called Haut Bay. Renting the car was an adventure in itself. I've never driven on the opposite side of the road AND the opposite side of the road before. I felt like an action figure in a video game. We did great - no accidents and no getting lost which made us quite happy. We spent the first day touring the Cape Peninsula and then yesterday, we went to Hermanus. Hermanus is known for its famous visitors - the southern right whales. It is the number one place in the world to see them from the shore - as opposed to having to go out on a boat to view them. They go there to mate and calve during the months of September, October and November. We were told that they wouldn't be there anymore but decided to go check it out anyway. We were very glad that we did because not only did we see them - but we saw LOADS of them. They came right in close to shore and we literally lost count of how many we saw breaching out of the water. Most of them were mothers with their babies. It's hard to explain or put into words just how spectacular of a sight it was. I feel confident saying that I will probably never experience whale watching like that again in my life. Absolutely amazing. Today is our last day in Cape Town and tomorrow morning we will depart for our 3 week overland trip to Victoria Falls. I am looking forward to getting out of this beautiful city and getting into the "real" Africa. Our trip will take us up the west coast of South Africa, up through the Kalahari Desert in Namibia, the Okavanga Delta in Botswana and then to Victoria Falls. A short description of the pictures that I've included: The one in front of the colorful houses is Bo-Kapp in Cape Town - it's a predominantly Muslim neighborhood and all of the houses are very colorful. The few from the coast are from our drive down the Cape Peninsula and the beautiful beaches, the African penguins and Amanda and I at the Cape of Good Hope. I didn't get any real good shots of the whales so I didn 't include them - unfortunately, my camera doesn't have a good zoom lens - so you'll just have to take my word for it.